“Gourmet” weekend in Brescia: delicacies and 2 “family cooking” recipes
We have arrived at the third episode of our fantastic weekend in Brescia “La Leonessa” which, together with Bergamo, was elected Italian Capital of Culture 2023.
It will be a rich trip full of beauty where you will discover the Brixia archaeological sites, the Tosio Martinengo Art Gallery, the Castle, the Risorgimento Museum, the Weapons Museum...) and of taste (local gastronomy, local excellence, typical dishes of the “Lioness” and where you can still eat the “family cuisine”
Ready? Let’s go. 
TO SEE
Diocesan Museum
Very rich collection of illuminated manuscripts, sacred goldsmith’s art and liturgical fabrics made starting from the 14th century. In the picture gallery works by the most important Brescian artists including Moretto, Roma Nino, Celesti
Santa Giulia, Museum of the City,
Unique in terms of exhibition concept and venue, set up in a monastic complex of Lombard origin. It is the ideal place to embark on a journey through the history and art of Brescia, from the prehistoric age to today.
It houses the great exhibition dedicated to the Brescian painter Giacomo Ceruti, the painter of the humble classes, such as the laundresses and the young “carriers” caught in their heavy trade. 
Mille Miglia Museum
In the ancient monastic complex of Sant’Eufemia the famous car race is presented through a rich collection of vintage cars from the Mercedes Benz Museum in Stuttgart and from private collections with interesting settings and scenography that recall the various historical periods crossed by the house. A must for those who love designer cars. 
WHERE DO REAL BRESCIANS GO ON SATURDAY MORNING?
At the Piazza della Loggia Market where quality and price are at home.
The stalls offer traditional delicacies and gastronomic excellences ranging from El Panadì, typical bread from Brescia, to the delicious zeppole di San Giuseppe, excellent all year round. 
There you will find exquisite local cheeses, such as Formaggella del Tremosine, Silter, Nostrano Valtrompia, Rosa Camuna and of course Bagoss. 
You will find fresh pasta, ravioli and casoncelli of all kinds, while local cold cuts pay homage to the area, such as Cuz salami and dii Montisola, the mutton sausage, the soppressata, If you are gourmets looking for fish and meat, you will find tasty roasted cod, fried fish and the traditional beef and chicken skewers, also already cooked for take away.
.WHERE TO FIND A “FAMILY” CUISINE
Antica Trattoria Porteri
An authentic and welcoming restaurant, managed by the Porteri family since 1875 and which has become part of the history of Brescian catering. The restaurant is located in the charming Borgo Trento, once an exchange area between Brescia, the lower Brescia area and the valleys that descended from the northern part.
Only craft activities flourished in the Borgo, people rode around on horseback, in the alleys they stopped the buggies of the greengrocers and carpenters, here and there rustic inns for refreshments.
Today the Borgo is animated by new shops and artisan businesses, such as Senza Fronzoli, a “bulk shop” that sells only bulk products, including pasta, spices, cosmetics, household cleaners and much more. Just fill your (or one of their) containers and buy as much weight as you want.
Sapori alla Spina liqueurs and distillates in bulk, from spices to fruit vinegars, to oils, to a thousand types of balsamic vinegar with fruit, chocolate, truffles and coffee….
The Via Trento has another very pleasant “gourmet” surprise in store: the Salumeria Porteri next to the Trattoria of the same name, a place of delivery for the excellence of the area, supplied by historical producers, almost all local, in short, a destination not to be missed if you want to taste the flavors , the scents and the atmosphere of a “family kitchen”
At the helm of the Antica Trattoria Porteri we find Marco Porteri who with his sister Francesca continues, preserves and partially renews the tradition.
I meet him for a pleasant chat.
Hi Marco, usual questions: where do you like to spend a free weekend?
With my family in the mountains of our area, where I like to experiment with trattorias I don’t know and, since the job of a cook is also a bit of a “petty thief”, I like to browse their menus, taste some dishes and drink some good wine from the our lands.
What car do you drive?
Now I drive a Station Wagon but in the past, when I was a bit more of a rooster, I used to roam around in a Mustang,… then I decided to switch to a solid and spacious car where I load everything: family, dog and products.
Your first memory in the kitchen?
My mom who prepared the casoncelli alla bresciana with a filling of meat, bread, parmesan and sprinkled with plenty of garlic, sage and osmarin butter. I remember that at the age of 7 I was already passionate about pastry, I helped dad and the brigade.
Marco and Francesca Porteri
An unforgettable dish?
I have no doubts: my mum Graziella’s saffron risotto.
What are the top dishes in your kitchen?
Rovato beef in oil, but … as we do it … with stone-ground “island” corn polenta from Val Canonica and then our ricotta and spinach malfatti flavored with our glorious baloss cheese and the tender hay-raised rabbit, stuffed with the classic Brescia-style meat filling, and cooked for six hours and sautéed in the oven to obtain a nice crunchy.
The traditional beef in Rovato oil cooked in the “Porteri Family” version
I see the “dirty soup” on the menu. Can you tell me?
It is a poor dish where chicken broth is used and nothing is thrown away. It is a soup with chicken livers or hearts and semolina pasta. It is served in a cup with a little fresh parsley to give a nice fresh aroma. It is rather dark, brown in color, in short, “dirty”
Tradition has it that it is served before the skewer. to prepare the stomach a little but there are those who prefix it afterwards to cleanse the palate.
In short, sooner or later, it’s always a top dish on our menu..
Do you also have fish on the menu?
Of course, our cod alla Bresciana, stewed with tomato and potatoes and lots of fish from our lakes, like the smoked char that we serve with three types of mayonnaise and a sweet and sour beetroot.
Here comes Jacopo from the kitchen, fifth generation Porteri, very young and already a great lover of cooking.
Hi Jacopo, what do you think is your top dish?
Well, I would say our malfatti, which are bread, ricotta and spinach gnocchi, served with alpine butter and an exaggerated amount of Bagoss.
And a dessert that I absolutely have to taste?
The famous cake of roses, a real cloud with caramelized petals, I’ll bring you a bud, accompanied by late harvest Lugana wine zabaglione ice cream.
Delicious dishes….
After the tasting, I usually ask for a recipe that characterizes the style of the restaurant, but I must admit I’m a bit confused…
The traditional “dirty soup” or the “malfatti alla bresciana”?
Well, when in doubt, I’ll “still” them both!
Curious to know them? Here they are on the next page. Click Next>
