Signed, starred, historical, drunk and… golden. Our “gourmet” italian itinerary and the secret of how it should be served
Christmas is tradition: the crèche, the tree, the gifts, the big meals and of course… the panettone. There are several legends about his birth. The most common dates back to 1476 and tells of Ugo, a young falconer who worked at the court of Ludovico il Moro, Duke of Milan. It is said that Ugo was secretly in love with Adalgisa, daughter of Mastro Toni, the court baker and that to be close to her, he had been hired as an assistant pastry chef. Christmas was approaching and Ugo wanted to create a new bread for his beauty.
To the usual dough he added sugar, butter, eggs, raisins and chopped candied fruit, then he cooked it and gave it the shape of a gigantic muffin. The novelty was a success, everyone wanted the tasty dessert they called “pan de Toni” from which “panettone”, today more than ever the protagonist without borders on tables throughout Italy.
Milano where panettone was born
Our first stop awaits us in the heart of city: the legendary Ginrosa, which for more than 200 years has represented a true piece of Milan’s history, frequented by celebrities and artists, including the most important names of the Scapigliatura and all the mayors of Milan .
The historic “Ginrosa” cocktail with the unmistakable scent of herbs, created more than 100 years ago, has entered not only the history of Milanese evenings, but also the “Rosmagno” a classic, soft and light panettone, enriched with drops of Ginrosa, chocolate and candied orange pieces..
A few steps further on we discover the panettone sculptures of Cova, a historic café-pastry shop founded by a soldier of Napoleon in 1817. It was frequented by politicians and men of culture such as Mazzini, Garibaldi, Boito, Verga, Bacchelli and made it even more famous thanks to Ernest Hemingway who mentioned it in his stories. Cova panettones are true works of art inspired by the elegance of nineteenth-century decorations, liberty patterns, the irony of a pot-bellied Santa Claus peeping out of the chocolatey top.
I panettoni di Cova
We arrive in Arzignano, in the Vicenza area, an ancient prehistoric village.
Here the historic Olivieri 1882 company has been active for almost 140 years and has won multiple awards for the production of excellent leavened artisanal products. Among these, panettone triumphs, even in versions… drunk, with rum and with Nardini Grappa.
At the helm of Olivieri 1882 we find Nicola Olivieri.Olivieri
“Basically, I grew up among the leavened products that my grandfather baked every morning, says Nicola , and I remember that at the age of six I was already poking around in his laboratory… My curiosity remained. When I travel, I love discovering local patisseries, I adored those in Hong Kong, Singapore and New York, my favorite destination for a city break.I must say that surprises never end abroad, such as the incomparable tiramisu I tasted at J K Place in Paris.”
Our network of resellers distributes our packaged products all over the world, from the UK to Australia. We are also present in the United States, with an Eaitaly base in New York and we deliver in 48 hours”
Olmi, Tuscany
Certainly there is no shortage of history here and precisely we find a panettone that would undoubtedly have pleased the Empress Sissi, notoriously greedy for violet and chocolate sugared almonds. It is in fact inspired by the classic “Sacher” cake, with dough and dark chocolate drops and semi-candied apricots.
This delicacy, available in the Come una Volta pastry shop or online, was signed by a true collector of trophies: Beatrice Volta, silver medal at the Puglia Cake Festival and finalist at the Panettone World Cup where she received two gold medals.
We head south to stop in Minori, a charming village on the Amalfi Coast, a real pearl, a small strip bathed by the wonderful blue sea and framed by the heights and typical vegetation of the splendid Campania area. The wonderful Roman Marittima Villa built at sea level stands out. Another jewel of Minori is the famous Sentiero dei Limoni, a panoramic excursion that connects it to Maiori.
Sal De Riso, It is actually the intense flavor of the Amalfi lemon that inspires a world-famous pastry chef: Sal De Riso, winner of the Artisti del Panettone 2022 competition. imaginative cross between babà and tiramisu.
Sal De RisoThis year we have added a real jewel “Oro Puro”, panettone filled with fine Venezuelan chocolate Sur del Lago Domori and entirely covered with 18-carat gold leaves. The price is also “golden”: 170 Euros.
In the enchantment of Taormina we meet the “MIO” panettone by Chef Pietro D’Agostino, at the helm of the La Capinera restaurant, a Michelin star for 15 years and recently awarded the diploma of excellence by the Italian Academy of Cuisine.
“Call it, if you want, “starred”, jokes D’Agostino. “Panettone has always been the symbol of Christmas on the table; it is the typical dessert of the festivities. Also this year I wanted to accompany the toasts and festive moments with MY panettone and best wishes for a Merry Christmas and a Serene 2023″.
Pietro takes us on a gourmet itinerary among the excellences of his territory, from the tasty oranges of the Piana di Catania, whose peels are treated with water and sugar, as tradition dictates, to the raspberries of Etna dipped in dark chocolate, to the raisins soaked in Pantelleria passito wine, with the typical apples of the rich Etna undergrowth, softened by a white chocolate icing in a caramelized version with cane sugar and cinnamon.
Grand finale with the Maestro
Our “gourmet” journey takes us back to the North where we find the “King of Panettone” iginio Massari, who this year has created an innovative panettone with cocoa dough enriched with dark and milk chocolate drops produced with the selection of the Massari family .
This panettone requires a complex process with four leavenings at controlled time and temperature and two doughs for a total of 62 hours.
The cream, acacia honey and citrus nuances of orange in the dough release persistent aromatic notes that blend with the full taste of chocolate, an ingredient particularly loved by the Maestro.
How to serve planettone?
My advice: to best savor the soft consistency of the panettone and enhance the balance of aromas and flavours, heat it in the oven at 150° for 2 minutes and to all of you…
Merry Christmas, indeed “Delicious”!
