Baden-Baden: l’incanto “green” e “gourmet” della Foresta Nera (part.1)

Baden-Baden: the “green” and “gourmet” charm of the Black Forest
(part.1)
Ready for a trip of beauty, taste and green triumph?
Let’s discover Baden-Baden, Germany and you will not be disappointed
Baden-Baden became famous for its healthy thermal waters, discovered by none other than the ancient Romans, and in the early 19th century it experienced an unprecedented rise within a few decades, transforming from a sleepy country town to an elegant world-famous spa town.

Its 12 saline springs were already known by the ancient Romans, who built a thermal station in this area in 69 AD. The waters of Baden Baden originate at a depth of about 2000 meters and contain many trace elements and mineral substances beneficial to health such as cobalt, cesium, magnesium, zinc, silicic acid and copper.

Here the nobility and the upper class, artists and gamblers, high society and the demi-monde, people from all over the world meet. The international seaside society enjoyed playing roulette and attending concerts by international stars, popular theater productions, balls and horse racing in nearby Iffezheim.
With its social life, romantic ambiance and last but not least its gambling, Baden-Baden has secured the status of “capital d’été”, the summer capital of Europe.
Baden Baden it was also the place of residence of great families of the Russian nobility and great personalities of Russian literature including Turgenev, Gogol, Tolstoy, Dostoevsky, Alexander II Emperor of Russia, the composer Johannes Brahms and Matilda of Bavaria Countess of Trani and sister of the famous Empress of Austria “Sissi”.
In 1877 the sumptuous Friedrichsbad Thermal Baths were born, one of the most beautiful and modern spas in the world, in a neo-Renaissance style dominated by an enormous dome, enriched with brass, stucco, frescoes and majolica.
The waters of Baden-Baden are valued for the treatment of cardiovascular and rheumatic problems as well as respiratory and metabolic disorders. At the elegant thermal baths of Baden Baden it is therefore possible to carry out treatments of various kinds, both classic balneotherapy and hydrokinesitherapy, drinking and inhalation therapy, as well as being able to comfortably relax in saunas and Turkish baths for the simple pleasure of regenerating body and spirit. In the meantime, the growth and popularity of the city was also accelerated by the sumptuous casino designed by a French businessman Jacques Benes, called the king of Baden-Baden. Since then, celebrities such as Leo Tolstoy and Marlene Dietrich have played roulette, calling it “the most beautiful in the world”.
In 1945 the city fortunately spared from Allied bombings became the headquarters of the French forces in Germany. Even today, Baden Baden is known for its rich population and its many luxury shops including Hermès, Gucci, Valentino, Henry Winston and the luxury boutiques of Sophiestrasse, often referred to as the Champs Eliseè of the Black Forest.

Baden Baden has the reputation to be the highest rate of millionaires and multi-millionaires in Germany, one millionaire is calculated for every 30 inhabitants, this rich population is mainly composed of Germans followed by Russians and Ukrainians and among these great fortunes of the jet set there are also the descendants of Austrian and Russian German nobility, as well as movie and television personalities, businessmen and wealthy industrialists.
Art and beauty
Fryder Burda Museum, in addition to its rich collection of contemporary art, hosts the suggestive exhibition “The King is dead, long live the King”
The Fabergè Museum hosts some of the most spectacular creations of the famous jewellery factory. Be enchanted by the famous diamond-encrusted eggs, the crowns, and the spectacular jewels with which the ladies of the court adorned their dresses.
If you love strong sensations, Kulturhaus LA8 hosts “Criminal Women” an exhibition explores the multifaceted concept of “female crime” between narratives and metaphors surrounding “avenging angels” and “women led by the devil”, as well as the technical devices that sought to measure, document and punish female criminals

If you are looking for breathtaking views, venture on the splendid excursion that will take you to Mount Merkur with the funicular, a place from which to admire the whole city and even the ruins of the Roman Baths and two castles: Castello Vecchio of which only the suggestive ruins remain and New Castle. The Lichtentaler Allee was built along the Oos river which runs alongside the city, an incomparable promenade lined with weeping willows, rhododendrons, meadows and more than 100 types of flowers and plants.
At number 10 on the Allee, the Stadtmuseum, a interesting museum that tells the story of the city. It houses an exhibition of large stone monuments, works of art from Roman to modern times, as well as figures from the late Gothic portal of the town church, the Stiftskirche.
The museum is also known for its collections of historic toys, unusual coins and special medals. It still hosts “Feuer in der Stadt”, an exhibition dedicated to the city’s fire brigade and Queen Louise.

WHERE TO SLEEP
Belle Epoque
The name says it all, a boutique hotel that will take you back in time, thanks to its tastefully and elegantly furnished rooms and suites. Each room reflects a different era of the “Belle Epoque” and has its own style and character. For your comfort, all rooms are fully equipped according to modern standards: Safe, TV, telephone, wifi, smoke detector, mini bar, hair dryer, radio and desk. All rooms are equipped with air conditioning, while the junior suites and suites are equipped with suggestive ceramic tiled jacuzzis and guarantee relaxing and sparkling moments. Enjoy a rich breakfast buffet and afternoon tea with a choice of excellent desserts.

Der Kleine Prinz
Inspired by the famous character “the little prince” from the story of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the absolute protagonist of this charming boutique hotel, centrally located, close to all major attractions. A warm welcome and personalized service await you to make your stay unforgettable in over 40 elegant and individually decorated rooms and suites.
The hotel lounge with open fireplace offers a place to relax while sipping a cocktail or playing billiards. All surrounded by suggestive paintings from the tale of Saint-Exupéry.
After a rather busy day, I wanted to dine in the hotel’s elegant restaurant, where I discovered a refined menu that ranges from local products and a French touch and some references to Italian cuisine.
starting with the delicious “Chef’s welcome” based on delicate Black Forest ham, rigorously home-made bread, a delicious soup with red bean purée, a duck cooked to perfection, soft inside and crispy outside, served with celery puree and raspberry cream. Grand finale with the “Halvaparfait” dessert, almond parfait, apricot, fig, strawberry, raspberry, blackberry and mint, a true tribute to the lush Black Forest!

WHERE TO EAT
At the center of the lovely pedestrian area of Baden Baden we find Maltes, an interesting multitasking place, where during the day you can enjoy delicious homemade cakes, chocolate delicacies, splendid aromatic coffees and the famous teas of Perch’s Thehandel in Copenhagen which has been supplying the family since 1835 royal danish.
In this café by day and hidden kitchen by night, Chef Malte Kuhn offers Hidden Kitchen, a refined and colorful cuisine with French and Asian inspirations, with particular attention to simple, diversified and seasonal ingredients for a menu that changes every 4 weeks, a 6-course tasting menu and an à la carte choice.

I met Malte for a nice interview
Hello Malte, can you tell me about yourself?
I was born in a small town 100 km from Baden where I moved to attend school and start my life as a Chef. I was lucky enough to be mentored by Martin Herrmann and then completed a double degree with a major in hotel management. This was followed by the Althoff Seehotel Überfahrt on Lake Tegernsee and the Lakeside Restaurant at the Fontenay Hotel in Hamburg.
Your first memory in the kitchen?
The scents of sweets, cinnamon and Mamma Frauke in the kitchen. Honestly, I didn’t really like helping, I had a sweet tooth, but I loved to nibble here and there.
Is there a dish you prefer when cooked by another person?
I have no doubts: my wife Judith’s lasagna is simply perfect!
Are you an aggressive boss?
(laughs) I’d say not, I’m a quiet type, and the kitchen door is always open. there is no room for tantrums or hysteria. I have great respect and gratitude for the team I work with, we all want the smiles and happiness of those who enter this place, from the kitchen to the bar counter, to the guests’ tables.
The Michelin Star shines at the entrance, when did it arrive?
(smiles) The confirmation in April… but the license plate arrived just yesterday!
Do you want to take a photo?

Congratulations to Malte for its first Michelin Star, while, a little further on, we find a restaurant where the Star has been shining for 23 years!
We are in the elegant Jardin de France, led by celebrity chef Stephan Bernhard and assisted by the exuberant  wife, Madame Sophie.
The restaurant winds between internal rooms and a beautiful veranda outside, almost a greenhouse full of colorful flowers.
I met Stephan for a nice interview.
Bonjour Chef, when did your passion for cooking begin?
As a boy I was fascinated by cooking, especially by pastry, but when I realized that a pastry chef has to get up very early in the morning … well I was yound… and I liked being late at night .. so I abandoned the idea, until a family friend proposed to go and see how a restaurant kitchen worked.

“Come on Monday morning,” he told me and I remember it had a strange effect on me… I thought that restaurant only worked on weekends. I went and it was love at first sight, I fell in love with cooking. I started working and soon dreamed of having my own restaurant

Your first memory in the kitchen at home?
Grandma was a good cook, dad Alfred was often at home and dedicated himself to cooking specializing in legumes. A true Sunday tradition was to serve quenelle de Noelle, delicious meatballs in meat broth and ravioli stuffed with the leftovers of the meat used for the broth. A “poor” kitchen. where nothing was thrown away.
Does this “no waste” philosophy still continue in your kitchen?
Of course, even today I use scraps and offal, such as chicken entrails, livers, rooster’s combs, fish skin and so on.
Why did you choose Baden Baden?
It is a wonderful place and Sophie, my wife is in love with Germany. We opened the first Jardin de France on the hills of the city and after three years we moved here, right in the centre.
Your menu?
My desire is to be an ambassador of true French cuisine, the cuisine of my heart. Absolutely seasonal products, for example now is the season of asparagus, morel mushrooms, summer legumes, all protagonists of our menu.

A dish that takes us back to Black Forest cuisine?
The deer, served in a spiced crust, accompanied by green asparagus and in a sauce of. redberry

Where do you like to spend a free weekend?
Sophie and I love Provence, a region rich in oil and wine. On my little barbecue I love grilling meat and legumes. We also really like Liguria: Portofino and Recco, with its incomparable cheese focaccia!

Stephan , we are in the enchantment of the Black Forest, can you give us a “green” recipe?
Sure, a radish ostergruss salad, courgettes and cucumbers and horseradish cream. Ostergruss is an ancient vegetable. As early as 2500 BC. it was known by the Egyptians and enjoyed great popularity until the 20th century, especially in the Mediterranean region.
Voila the recipe!

Ostergruss radish salad, courgettes and cucumbers, horseradish cream

For 4 people
Ingredients
200g ostergruss radishes
200 g of zucchini
200 g of cucumbers
Horseradish cream:
10cl of whipped liquid cream
10 g of horseradish
Fleur de sel and ground pepper
Chives
Lemon juice
Olive oil
Preparation
Wash the radishes, cucumbers and zucchini
Grate the radishes and season them with salt, pepper, oil and a little lemon
Cut the courgettes and cucumbers into cubes and dress them with the horseradish cream and chives
Assemble the salad for dessert using a round or square cookie cutter. Cover the inside of the form with slices of courgettes and fill with the mixture of courgettes and cucumbers
Arrange on a flat plate, place the shape in the center (or staggered) and divide the radishes around (or on the side according to your tastes) decorate with a few horseradish cream dumplings and a few drops of olive oil.
Tip:
For a barbecue evening or an aperitif, the salad could be served layered in a glass.

Baden-Baden has many other surprises in store for us, including the “Grande Dame” who bewitched by George Clooney, David Beckham and many more VIPS.
Have we intrigued you?
We’ll tell you next Tuesday!

INFO
Baden Baden can also be reached with Ryan Air low-cost flights
from Bari, Cagliari, Lamezia, Milao Bergamo, Palermo, Trapani, Marsala.
Special thanks to Katjia Flann and all team from Baden-Baden Tourism Board

USEFULL LINKS
www.baden-baden.com

@visitbadenbaden
#visitbadenbaden
#thegoodgoodlifeHotel Belle Epoque
Hotel Der Kleine Prinz
Maltes Hidden Kitchen
Le Jardin De France