Portugal: Discover Porto and the famous “PORTO WINE” for an unforgettable ‘gourmet’ weekend.
By Cesare Zucca —
Today we take you to Porto, Portugal. A city that is history and modernity, river and sea, work and free time, an endless party and melancholy “saudade”
Porto is Vinho do Porto, the legendary wine that takes its name from this city, located near the mouth of the Douro River. From here, in fact, the drink took the trade routes around the world, loaded onto the characteristic barcos and transported along the river to the city of Vila Nova de Gaia, where it was enriched with brandy, matured and exported.
Fascinating stories and legends. So, your next destination could be a Port wine cellars where you will learn about the history and the winemaking and aging process of this traditional wine.
There are different types of Porto: Porto Ruby, the most widespread and well-known version, ruby in color and with an aromatic flavor of red fruits; Porto Tawny, more precious, less sweet and stronger, with an amber hue. Then there is the Porto Branco (White Porto), obtained mainly from white grapes only, young, fruity and perhaps the least considered, until ….
The revenge of the “White”
The story of “Porto Branco” reminds me a little of the “rebirth” of Aperol, a sugary liqueur that had gone into oblivion, until someone thought of pairing it with a prosecco and inventing the spritz, now super popular drink all over the world .
So also Porto Bianco, considered a port of little significance, is back in vogue as “Porto Tonic”, mixed with tonic water, orange peel and, to taste, a mint leaf or a slice of strawberry. It is a simple recipe but ideal for an aperitif or a snack with tapas
I “stole the recipe” and you will find out at the end of this article.
In addition to Porto, Portugal produces wines of excellent quality that are becoming more and more known and appreciated internationally, so let’s leave for a weekend that holds more than a surprise in the name of beauty, taste and good wine …
DISCOVERING THE CITY
Start your visit with a walk in the historic center of Porto, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along the Avenida dos Aliados, where the Town Hall and the popular Rua Santa Catarina stand out, perhaps with a stop for a coffee at the centenary Café Majestic. Nearby, you will find the São Bento train station, a riot of azulejos tiles depicting several milestones in Portuguese history.
If you don’t suffer from vertigo …
A must-see attraction is the Torre dos Clérigos, where 225 steps will take you to the top for a 360 ° view over the city. Not far away, the famous Livraria Lello awaits you. the Cathedral, the Church of Santa Clara, one of the best examples of the Baroque art of carving in gilded wood.
Wonderful parks: art, history, colors and … Instagram
If you are passionate about photography and love the colors of autumn, enter the marvelous Parco delle Virtù designed vertically on steeply sloping terraces, which allow you to see the whole city, the river and Alfândega (Palazzo della Dogana) while in the Serralves Park, you will find the Quinta do Mata-Sete, Villa Serralves and the spectacular Fundação de Serralves, one of the main cultural icons of the country.
Its 18-hectare park is home to interconnected spaces, such as the Casa del Cinema, Casa del The and the TreeTop Walk, a walkway raised above the ground, near the treetops that offers an extraordinary experience to observe and study the biodiversity of the park that in this season take on magical brown and orange tones … Go wild on Instagram…
Taste of the sea: Matosinhos
Venture towards a destination that is considered one of the best fishing destinations in the world: Matosinhos, a town about 7 km from the city, can be reached by a nice stroll along the promenade or by the characteristic trams (for my taste, a little too crowded by tourists), with the very comfortable Buses (107, 121, 500, 501, 506, 507) or with the Metro Line A.
There you will find the famous Mercados Municipais fish market where you can enjoy exquisite fish dishes at great prices, as well as a myriad of trattorias, I will mention a couple: Palato and the Marisqueira Pinto
A suggestive itinerary
Following the Matosinhos seafront towards Porto you will find the Fort of São Francisco Xavier, known as Castelo do Queijo, Castle of Cheese, nickname given by the fishermen who returned home after fishing, tired and hungry …
There the imposing Anemone sculpture, inspired by fishermen’s nets, dominates. Next door is the Parque da Cidade [City Park], the only urban park in Europe with a promenade and 83 hectares of greenery and lakes. Here you can visit the Sea Life aquarium to discover life under water, with more than 3000 marine creatures.
Now we are heading towards Praia do Molhe. Sandy beach and an intense (but really intense) scent of the sea. Further on, passing by the famous Pérgola da Foz, built in the 1930s. Continue to the Barra do Douro Lighthouses, near the Forte de São João Baptista, which the locals call Castelo da Foz. These lighthouses mark the meeting point between the Atlantic and the Douro River. Here the views and sunsets are breathtaking.
HOW TO VISIT
Porto winds over hills and if the ups and downs are too strenuous, take the Segway tour on wheels with a three-hour guided tour that includes several breaks so you can hear the best stories and legends. No effort … the same can be said for a river cruise, which will make you discover the city from a new point of view or will take you along the Douro Valley to learn about the history, the grape harvest and taste different qualities of Porto.
An excellent solution to visit Porto is to board a bus. Hop-On Hop-Off. You will travel around the city and, thanks to the headset in all languages, you will get to know the history of Porto.
On the other hand, those who want to be a tourist can board the famous (and crowded) Tram 1, which departs from the Barredo and La Ribeira neighborhoods, in the heart of the city. .
Portuguese cuisine is rich, tasty and irresistible ,,,
Take a trip to the spectacular Bolhão Market, recently reopened, and you will find the most typical products and the truest flavors of Portugal, from the colorful cans of sardines (fun souvenirs to bring to friends) to chocolates, sweets, cheeses, oils, jams, tastings of wine and even handmade crockery. Numerous restaurants are springing up on the first floor. Excellent destination for a stopover, some shopping and a snack.
The most popular dishes
Tripas a moda du Porto, it’s a rich dish of tripes (rumor has it that the best in town is that of the Douro Sentido restaurant)
A little hungry?
Here it comes, the iconic francesinha, the Portuguese version of the croque monsieur: a super carrè toast stuffed with many types of meat, copiously covered with dark cheese and drowned in tomato sauce … a nice bricked, but super-tasty, it will certainly take away your hunger! The best francesinha seems to be that of the Cerveceria Brasão or the very central Cafe Santiago in Rua de Passos Manuel.
Feel like having some “bacalhau”?
Cod is the national food: fried, grilled or in a thousand ‘gourmet’ versions.
One of the most original is undoubtedly the pastel that you can taste in the suggestive Casa Portuguesa do Pastel n Gaya, beyond the bridge, where once the port cellars stood and the wine arrived in barrels aboard “rabelo” boats. It is a large croquette stuffed with tasty cod and Serra da Estrela cheese and it can be enjoyed, of course, with a glass of port..
WHERE TO EAT
Cantinho do Avillez
One of the restaurant of the top Portuguese Chef José Avillez. Casual atmosphere, nice atmosphere, friendly and casual staff. The menu mentions traditional dishes and often takes flight to other countries, such as sopa de peixe soup with fresh fish and a Brazilian moqueca with fish and prawns.
DOP
Restaurant of Chef Rui Paula, also at the helm of the 2-star Casa de chà da boa nova in Matosinhos. As an appetizer I tasted a scallop with quinoa and then the traditional lagareiro octopus, well cooked. For dessert a pie (really) of chocolate and biscuits.
The environment is pleasant, elegant, with a beautiful view of the Cathedral, the menu wants to honor the cuisine of memory, but it didn’t drive me crazy, perhaps from a starred chef I expected more ….
WHERE TO SLEEP
I chose two different hotels for both the location and the budget.
Ibis Porto Centro Mercado Bolhão
3-star structure of the proven Accor hotel chain which today boasts more than a thousand hotels all over the world. Ibis, in my opinion ‘is a bit like Ikea, you know what you find and it never disappoints …
It is located on the top 5 floors of a 1950s-style building. Affordable prices, but with everything in place, from the friendly reception to a well-stocked buffet-breakfast where there is no shortage of traditional pasteis de nata, crunchy cream cakes.
Basic rooms with vaguely industrial-style furnishings, some overlooking the nearby Mercado (not to be missed). Very central location: The Liberdade Metro station is a stone’s throw away and the direct transfer to the airport also departs from there. Recommended.
Hotel Vila Foz Hotel & Spa
Let’s go towards the sea, a few kilometers from the center stands an elegant 5-star structure in a manor house of the late nineteenth century, redesigned by the famous designer Nini Andrade Silva who, while respecting the ancient architectural lines, dared to be bold but refined contemporaneity.
ea view rooms with high-class furnishings, a beautiful spa, a spectacular buffet-breakfast complete with Moet & Chandon champagne and fresh oysters. The courtesies continue in the rooms where I found a bottle of Port Nieporrt as a welcome… Really 5 stars!
The hotel houses the sumptuous Vila Foz Restaurant, (Michelin Star) whose menu offers a surprising journey of textures and tastes for a constantly evolving menu where authenticity and flavor are the highest expression.At the helm we find Chef Arnaldo Azevedo, a native of Porto. He made his debut in the kitchen in his parents’ restaurant in Ermesinde. This was followed by the Santa Maria da Feira school and the Sheraton Pine Cliffs in Algarve, a locality with an excellent culinary tradition and home to great chefs such as Hans Neuner, whom Arnaldo defines as “Great source of inspiration for all those who work in haute cuisine and, as him, there are many “..
“In my menu, says Arnaldo, the sea is always present, the freshness and flavor of the fish, of the seafood of the Portuguese coast. I have a particular fondness for lobster rice, a traditional dish found both in haute cuisine and in more regional cuisine. “.
Extremely refined in the details and in the mise en place, there is no shortage of surprises: from the trompe-l’œil dish with two clams on a bed of steaming shells (be careful not to bite into the shells …) to the magical appearance of an egg hidden in a sphere of jelly …
The wine list is rich and diverse, with 203 labels listed, among which the superior restaurants of the Douro valley and Pico Island stand out. In the cellar we also find a white and a red label Vila Foz, produced by the well-established Niepoort winery. Excellent dessert wine list: Wines from Porto, Madeira, Moscatel de Setúbal etc.
Vila Foz is a champion in promoting the country’s wine excellences. Many guests are interested in Portuguese wines and want to get to know them better. The hotel, with the support of the sommelier, offers a series of tastings that cover the various national regions and that include Table Wines, Port Wines and even the creation of bridges between International Wines and Portuguese Wines.
All tastings are paired with traditional Portuguese cheeses, meats or desserts, while for passionate bartenders, there is a Cocktail Experience, where you are taught how to prepare two classic cocktails and create your own drink.
I have learned mine! It’s the very easy and delicious “White Porto Tonic” …
Here is the recipe:
PORTO TONIC
Ingredients
1 1/2 ounces of white port
3 ounces of tonic water
1 sprig of fresh mint
1 orange wedge
ice cubes
Preparation
Add ice (cubes or a single large cube)
Pour in the white port and the tonic water.
Gently mix.
Add the orange wedge and fresh mint as a garnish.