City Break



-Testo e foto di Cesare Zucca-

City break a Lisbona. Ospitale, solare, bellissima. Una città che ha ancora un’anima, dove puoi trovare la botteguccia dell’artigiano che ripara violini, il tipografo che sigilla i quaderni con le tue iniziali, il cuoco che sbuca dalla cucina per controllare se il suo baccalà è di tuo gradimento e la signora dell’Alfama che dipinge a mano le cartoline. Insomma, un tuffo a ritroso nel tempo e uno sguardo al futuro per un viaggio tra ieri, oggi e domani. Ecco il mio weekend in 7 mosse.

1) Autobus ‘sù e giù’ perfetti per scoprire la città. Voce guida in italiano, scendi quando ti pare, visiti e riprendi il bus successive, il biglietto dura fino a 72 ore.
Ho scelto il conveniente ‘All in One’, che prevede anche un giro in battello.

Soste d’obbligo: il Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, la Torre de Belém e una puntatina alla sua storica ‘pasteleria’ per una scorpacciata di ‘pasteis de nata’, il tradizionale dolcetto alla crema su una cialda croccante. Uno non ne basta, ve lo assicuro…

2) MAAT museo d’arte, architettura e tecnologia. E’ una gigantesca conchiglia futuristica a picco sul fiume Tago. L’artista giapponese Tadashi Kawamata presenta Over Flow un’installazione che vi trasporterà in un paesaggio dopo la catastrofe ecologica, dove i detriti trasportati dal mare stanno per inghiottire la civiltà.
3) Il tram 28. Simbolo della città, giallo, minuscolo e scattante. Si arrampica fino al Castello da cui si gode di una vista spettacolare. Affollato e turistico, io ho preferito il bus 737 e uno dei ‘tram tour’ dai posti numerati. Ah, occhio al portafoglio, meglio imbucarlo in borsa o nello zainetto, rigorosamente indossato sul davanti.

4) Fado, la musica che rappresenta storia, identità e cultura del Portogallo. Ho visitato la casa di Amalia Rodriguez , la regina del fado, il Museo del Fado e molti locali con cena e musica, tra cui Tasca do Chico, Tasca do Jaime, Mascote da Atalaia, Parreirinha de Alfama e la storica Adega Machado.

5) Baccalà! Il piatto nazionale. Nelle tascas, tra cui la Tasca do Manuel o nel popolare Solar dos Presuntos. Il mio preferito è il ‘Baccalhau à Bràs’. Insuperabile quello con ‘olive esplosive’ cucinato dallo chef stellato Jose Avillez, nel suo Café’ Lisboa.

6) Alfama, un quartiere che ricorda I carruggi genovesi. Tra labirinti colorati e saliscendi inaspettati, troverete un angolino indimenticabile dove gustare un buon bicchiere di porto o vinho verde.

7) Cascais, ci arrivate In mezz’ora di treno. Una deliziosa Portofino portoghese, famosa per I frutti di mare, grigliati sotto i vostri occhi. Un’alternativa storica? Sintra con le sue residenze regali. Se ne e’ innamorata anche Madonna, che qui ha deciso di investire in ville e palazzi…


























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