“No boats, no fishermen, no lanterns in red Venice …” So wrote the poet Alfred de Musset in 1844, painting an empty and lonely Venice. Many years have passed and these verses are unexpectedly current. In time of Covid, Venice, the most popular tourist destination in the world, saw the visits of American, Chinese, Japanese tourists canceled and those of tourists from all over the world halved. Trips canceled, reservations canceled. a turnover ranging from 50 to 90% less than usual. In these days, after the reduced turnout of the Film Festival, Venice has returned to being a half-empty city that knows how to offer truly unusual visions never seen before and certainly even more enchanting. The lines at the vaporetti are almost non-existent. which although limited in number, are attentive to the spacing and obligatory nature of the mask. A few tourists in Piazza San Marco and its surroundings, but it will be enough to leave the center to find calli, alleys and sotoporteghi, completely deserted. An unusually solitary vision perhaps, but which makes the city a perfect destination for a weekend in a secret, deserted, unreal and even more seductive Venice. Little work also for the gondoliers who have lowered their prices: now with 50-60 Euros you can take a nice gondola ride, tourist yes, but still a symbol of the city. An exciting weekend where you can discover unusual corners, learn new stories, experience unforgettable moments and… taste the wonderful cuisine of the Lagoon, both in luxury restaurants and in simple trattorias, both unforgettable. Where stay: We forget the tourist hotels (even the half-empty ones) to discover more ‘niche’ accommodations. Court of Gabriela In the small Calle degli Avvocati a very accurate residence awaits you where the inspiration of the owner / chef will reserve you a perfect welcome, starting with the linen, served in rustic paper bags, to the silky sheets. Modern design, small breakfast strictly home cooked, exquisite and served in a delightful garden. Here and there vintage photos with past festival stars, Paul Newman, Claudia Cardinale, Jane Fonda… Perhaps it is one of the best luxury choices in the neighborhood. A 10-room boutique hotel in one of the most elegant districts of Venice, Corte Di Gabriela is a chic residence that marries contemporary style with the charm of historic touches. In the center, near San Marco, a few steps from the main attractions of the city, in a quiet and isolated street. this hotel has a lovely internal courtyard and a cozy (and equipped with a rich buffet prepared at home by the Patron Gian Luca) All the rooms are different and elegant alike; some are decorated with frescoes on the ceiling, while others have canal views. Amenities are large and modern, iPads and free Wi-Fi. EGO’ Literally next to the Rialto Bridge, a 4-star luxury boutique hotel that tells the story of Marco Polo and the Silk Road. It will be the very kind Ekaterina to welcome you and tell you how each room recalls an episode of his journey, while here and there historical hints on the life of the great conqueror pop up. For a special night, a soecial room, a round bed, a jacuzzi with a mosaic of gold, moon and sun and when you wake up a rich breakfast served in your room or in the sitting room overlooking the Grand Canal. Where to eat: let’s get off to a great start Arva Among stuccos, paintings and frescoes, in the splendor of the eighteenth-century Venetian triumph, the exclusive restaurant of the Hotel Aman awaits you, with its sumptuous halls inside and its garden overlooking the canal. Chef Dario Ossola is at the helm of a refined Venetian cuisine with exquisite gourmet variations. Location and Oscar dinner, it is no coincidence that George Clooney chose it for his wedding party. Bistro de Venise Quintessence of Venetian style, history and cuisine. Three rooms dedicated to legendary Venetian characters: Goldoni, Casanova, Vivaldi. A classic menu with historical recipes alternating with innovations by the chef … Red upholstery on the nineteenth-century painting walls, string quartet music: in short, an elegant blast from the past Zanze XVI Let’s dive into the present and into the ‘globe’ menu where Chef Stefano’s creativity meets the classicism of certain recipes from the Lagoon. Modern decor, I would say casual chic, impeccably friendly staff, excellent wine selection. Hostaria by Franz Tradition and quality, in short, class is not water (often ‘high’ in Venice) A place absolutely driven by the impeccable Maitre Maurizio Maurizio Gasparini who, in an elegant but casual bistro atmosphere, will advise you on how to enjoy the cuisine and the evening to the fullest.
Where do real Venetians go for dinner?
Here are four addresses of ‘quality-price’ structures (yes, in short, where they don’t ‘peel’ you …) mainly frequented by locals. The Historic Trattoria It goes from a nice terrace to an interior full of paintings by the author, which often constituted the payment for a good dinner. 100% Venetian menu starting from …. I went there twice! Antico Gatoleto Adriano and Bilal will immediately welcome you with a smile and a delicious focaccia with red onions and caper leaves. Throw yourself on the fish as I did: a truly memorable raw appetizer, excellent spaghetti with cuttlefish ink at reasonable prices. Trattoria Alla Madonna A classic of Venetian catering. It has been there for 75 years and the management has passed from generation to generation. Today Lucio Rado takes care of it, but the menu is the same as always. Here you cannot go wrong: abundant dishes, accurate service and above all… No music a dip in the past with the delights of the present opt for tradition: Venetian liver And let us advise you for the fish. Osteria Oliva black A real revelation: starred chef dishes but, luckily, without attitude, congratulations to Stefano Novello … Already the white glass served with green and black olives marinated in orange, a high … The traditional ‘bigoli in sauce’ dish a pasta with onion and anchovy sauce was just perfect. For desserts, let yourself be seduced by the owner Isabella who, in addition to taking care of the restaurant, runs a delightful B&B just around the corner. She served me a date pie with lemon ice cream: a delight. Finally… surprise! We meet the Red Priest, nickname of Vivaldi, a restaurant with a terrace at the top of the Locanda Vivaldi, a little known paradise and generally reserved for those who stay at the Locanda, but can also be booked by external customers, Chef Antonio will delight you with smiling, just like him , Venetian dishes of fresh fish. And what a spectacular view! Enjoy one of the most beautiful sunsets of your life … And if you want to find out where the Venetians have their midday lunch, the address is unique: the legendary Rosticceria Gislon in Calle de la Bissa, 5424 / where the long counter full of gastronomic delights will delight you first the sight and then the palate with the more classic Venetian specialties, from saor to the famous creamed cod, to an incomparable mozzarella in carrozza with anchovies. Quite crowded, a bit of a queue to do, but it’s worth it. As you will see, covid does not stop gourmets!