Weekend a Brescia, Capitale Cultura 2023. Storia, arte, bellezze nascoste e sorprese gourmet

2023. Brescia and Bergamo were elected Italian Capitals of Culture.The slogan is “Discover a city you don’t expect” and it’s true… during my weekend in Brescia I discovered a city rich in history and art, full of attractions and surprises, from Roman Brescia to spectacular churches, squares history, museums, art galleries, a castle and not one, but two cathedrals, side by side ..

In fact, Piazza Paolo VI welcomes the New Cathedral, built in 1604. The interior is grand and solemn and its majestic dome, 80 meters high, is the third largest in Italy after that of St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Maria del Fiore in Florence.Right next to it is the Duomo Vecchio, with its characteristic cylindrical stone structure from the Romanesque era. Austere and solemn, it is an invitation to silence and meditation, right from your entrance, where you will be greeted by the large red marble sarcophagus in which the bishop and first lord of Brescia, Berardo Maggi, is buried. The interior is rich in frescoes and numerous works of art, mosaic floors and the famous chapel which houses the Treasure of the Holy Crosses, precious relics including the reliquary of the Most Holy Thorns and fragments of the True Cross.Then again many curiosities, from the underground paths to the flying rhinoceros flying over Piazza Vittoria, in short, a “Lioness” who will fascinate you with all her riches to discover and will win you over with her succulent Brescian cuisine.Ready? Let’s go!Brixia. Archaeological Park of Roman BresciaUNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the best preserved in Italy. The Capitolium of 73 AD it houses original furnishings, altars, decorations and mosaic floors dating back to the 1st century AD. Next to the Temple stands the Roman Theater which dates from the 1st and 3rd centuries, while under the Capitolium there is the Republican Sanctuary which preserves surprising frescoes and perfectly preserved decorations in each room. Preceded by a captivating video, a breathtaking appointment awaits you with the marvelous bronze sculpture of the Winged Victory, one of the most extraordinary statues of the Roman era. Almost two meters tall, this beautiful Goddess was loved by Giosuè Carducci who celebrated her in the ode Alla Vittoria, admired by Gabriele d’Annunzio and Napoleon III who wanted a copy.Today it is one of the most important Roman works in terms of composition, material and conservation and one of the few Roman bronzes from excavations that have come down to us.Not to be missed!The Risorgimento Museum “Leonessa d’Italia”It has reopened its doors after twenty years of closure, with an innovative and immersive set-up. It is located in the Grande Miglio del Castello, a medieval fortress perched on Colle Cidneo, reachable on foot, if you feel like doing some sport and don’t fear the steps, or by car or metro, San Faustino stop and a 10-minute walk or by bus.Once through the entrance, you come across the bastion of San Pietro, an ancient well from the 16th century. The Luigi Marzoli Weapons Museum is also located here, while following the path to the left you will find the Palazzina del Governatore which overlooks a vast square from which you can admire the whole of Brescia. Reopened after 20 years of closure, the Museum has been renamed ” The Lioness” and is the result of a long historiographical and design work. The new exhibition itinerary tells the story of the Risorgimento as a phenomenon of European caliber and of urgent relevance.Paintings, sculptures, relics and “relics” are read and returned as a material manifestation of the long and complex history that culminated in Italian unification.A rich digital collection accompanies and integrates a narrative that reaches up to the present day, involving the visitor in the events that saw Brescia at the center of the long Risorgimento, making it famous throughout the world as the Lioness of Italy. Among memorabilia, objects, paintings, flags, memorials and sculptures, you will discover the authentic red jackets of the Garibaldini, weapons, rifles, medical briefcases with equipment to help the wounded, even some patriotic “fashion trends”. Long live Italy! Palazzo MartinengoFor lovers of beauty, the Palace hosts “Lotto, Romanino, Moretto, Ceruti, champions of painting between Brescia and Bergamo”, a suggestive exhibition that directly compares the champions of Renaissance and Baroque painting active in the two cities during the four centuries of Venetian domination.The works of the great masters from Brescia  and Bergamo are reflected in a close and stimulating dialogue. The galleries of the Palace are enlivened by works by great artists, from paintings by Bellini and Titian, to the “still lifes” by Baschenis, Bettera, Rasio and Duranti up to the irreverent paintings by Bocchi, populated by funny dwarfs and pygmies.

WHERE TO EATLa Sosta and the famous “Capretto alla Bresciana”We enter an ancient seventeenth-century stable located in the Palazzo dei noble Martinengo, once used for changing mounts both for carriages and for solitary knights who rested and refreshed there. A magical place characterized by Renaissance columns, ancient mirrors, precious chandeliers, sconces with diffused light and copper furnishings.Today it is an exclusive restaurant directed by the current “patron” Aldo Mazzolari who, with his verve and creativity, has made the La Sosta restaurant, already unique in itself, the most coveted meeting point in the city. The Chef’s menu Roberto Mor respects Brescian cuisine, renewing it in flavors and techniques, but preserving the imprint of tradition, such as in the casoncelli with braised donkey with poured malga butter and 36-month Parmesan cheese and in the iconic beef in oil in the fashion of Rovato.

Fassona tartareAmong the most significant dishes we find the hay-raised rabbit stuffed with goose liver and Amarone reduction or an almost Parisian touch in the fassona tartare with spiced lard and toasted almonds and in the orange lacquered duck breast with smoked burrata .Smoked burrata with orange lacquered duck breast

The true “king of the table” is the Capretto alla Bresciana, rigorously accompanied by polenta. Delightful! impossible not to talk about it with the young Chef Roberto Mor, at the helm of the Sosta.Robert Mor. The Chef of La Sosta gives us the recipe for the famous “Capretto alla Brescian” in an easy version… or almost

Hello Roberto, can you tell us about this Capretto alla Bresciana, an iconic dish on the Sosta menu?I must say that the Sosta menu had been absolutely traditional for generations with dishes that focused mainly on Brescian cuisine. Now it’s my turn, I’m a younger chef and like all young people I wanted to bring something new, always respecting the rules of the house: high quality raw materials, selected producers, small companies. excellent ingredients.What are the basis for obtaining a good Capretto alla Bresciana?The ingredients are really important: in my version, for example, the kid comes from Sardinia and the malga butter from Bardolino, the rosemary from our garden.

And the polenta?It must be taken care of properly: I use 4 types: corn flour, bramata, taragna and Trentino flour from Storo, produced from “Marano” wheat which is grown respecting the cycles of nature, without any agronomic forcing and then ground in the Storo mill .A difficult dish to prepare?Well, yes, it’s a recipe that requires a long preparation, almost 4 hours, but I wanted to simplify it so that it’s easier to prepare at home. The important thing is to put a lot of passion into it…A passion that you inherited from your family?Undoubtedly from my grandparents Maria and Franco, whom I often helped in the kitchen, already feeling like a chef. I can’t forget grandma’s snacks, anchovies and marinated onions served in a loaf of bread. I arrived at la Sosta when I was only 16 and I found a great master and a brigade of young people with whom I immediately bonded..BRESCIANA KID WITH POLENTA AND ROSEMARYIngredientskg 1 kid,gr. 200 alpine butter,10 g extra virgin olive oil,gr. 15 halls,gr. 50 rosemary,gr. 250 corn flour, bramata, from Storo, taragnaVELENOWe are in the highly centralized Via Gramsci, on the first floor of the historic building where Santa Maria Crocifissa di Rosa was born, the founder of the Handmaids of Charity and protector of the city.Furnishings, tapestries, frescoes welcome us in a refined and elegant environment. Among atmospheres that take us to magically exotic worlds, sculptures of tigers, animal floors, stuccos, fireplaces and finely decorated coffered ceilings dominate.The menu highlights the search for niche raw materials in an area rich in history and traditions, revisited by his creativity and experience. Taste, amazement and memory that excite.Fish triumphs here, it is no coincidence that the tasting menu is entitled “Like at the sea on holiday” From the spectacular Gran Vaporata of shellfish and vegetables with lobster, purple prawns, prawns, red prawns, scampi and mayonnaise, to Moro stewed with pizzaiola, Mediterranean with potatoes, tomatoes, oregano

The fish dishes of Veleno: the Gran Vaporata and the Moro alla pizzaiolaAt the helm we find Chef Fabrizio Albini whom I met for a nice chat.

Hello Fabrizio, why “Poison”?We took inspiration from a book found inside the building. It was entitled “Poison” and spoke of recipes, alchemy and certain poisonous gossip that circulated in the kitchen, especially regarding the noble owners of the building.Gossip in the kitchen… even today?(smiles) I’d say no, but a gossip or at least a common belief claims that the Brescian palate has difficulty adapting to new dishes and is afraid to experiment with a different menu, even though now I must say that my client is curious to taste new proposals.Where do you like to spend a free weekend?I love Italy, its mountains, nature and gastronomic culture, one of my favorite places is Contrada Bricconi, a farmhouse in Val Seriana born to give new life to a 15th century village through agriculture and catering Century. Here cheese and meat are produced, and a cuisine that tells the story of agricultural work and mountain culture is offered.Do you get any ideas for your kitchen?Certainly, especially today, given that we are very close to craftsmanship and local products

Steamed squid, soused vegetables, nasturtium, potato spaghetti and cuttlefish inkThe journeys of the heart?Israel and a lot of France, Spain: from Périgord to  San Sebastian, to Llívia, in the Pyrenees, Andorra, where I discovered a great tradition of country cooking and fantastic cabbage crops.The first memory as a child in the kitchen?In the kitchen of Osteria Milano, one of the most important taverns in Brescia, managed by my grandfather. I remember the casoncelli of fresh pasta cut with the can of tuna…When did the professional spark take off?At 16, after meeting the great chef Vittorio Fusari, from there I left the sport to devote myself to cooking.

A very fragrant half pacchero: sole, butter, parsley pesto and the renowned sardines of Montisola.What if he hadn’t become a chef?Probably an engineer or an architect: I’m strong in math and passionate about design.In his fridge at home: always and never?Always: bubbles: Franciacorta and champagne, a good seasoned Parmesan, seasonal vegetables, since we are lucky enough to have a family vegetable garden.Never: packaged or prepared food, not even “precious” but now common ingredients such as foie gras, Cantabrian anchovies and oysters.Is there a dish you only eat when cooked by someone else?I have no doubts: Pino Cuttaia’s lobster soup in Licata.His philosophy in the kitchen?have the place that works, work with precision and continuity just like playing football, simplicity, few ingredients, but of great quality that know how to enhance the main ingredient, the crossover with other cuisines, the territory, the km. zero, if the product is Italian, to which I give space and priority.

A recipe for Weekend Premium friends?Certainly, one of my favorite dishes: steamed squid, soused vegetables, nasturtium, potato spaghetti and cuttlefish ink

Ingredients for 6 people6 fresh squid of about 20 cm2 shallots8 g cuttlefish ink100 g champagne vinegar6 g not too hot red pepper500 g of vegetables for the sauce (carrots, celery, Jerusalem artichokes, red onions, fennel)1 large yellow potato for spaghettiSalt to taste.Clean and peel the squid and keep the heads for the filling, wash and dry it perfectly, blend everything until you get a smooth cream. Transfer the mixture into a sac à poche and create puffs of about 30 g between two sheets of baking paper and with the help of a meat mallet, try to obtain a very thin, almost transparent sheet. Immerse these sheets in water at 80°C for 10 minutes or steam them at 70° for 12 minutes.For the stuffingChop the squid heads, brown the shallot, once golden add the squid, pour over the white wine, let it evaporate and add the ink. Cook for about 30 minutes, adding salt to taste. Blend and keep warm in a sac à poche.For the sauceBrown the vegetables, cover with ice, add the tomato paste and reduce by cooking over high heat. Complete the sauce with champagne vinegar and chilli pepper.To complete the dishFill the squid sheet with the filling and roll it up, add the potato spaghetti blanched in water and salt and seasoned with oil and lemon and a little ink at the top of the squid. Cover with the very hot vegetable sauce and garnish with nasturtium sprouts and rocket leaves.THREE “GOODIES” IN THE WEEKEND IN BRESCIANO… And don’t call it “spritz”!For an aperitif on Saturday morning, everyone, but everyone… at Osteria Al Bianchi for a glass of pirlo, the Brescian aperitif par excellence and symbolic drink of the city of the Lioness. Super simple recipe: Campari, Vino and Seltz.Since there is no pirlo without food, on Saturdays it is accompanied by bertagni, fried cod sticks, while on Sundays it is enjoyed with meatballs.A coffee or a drink to rememberPrepare to be amazed when you cross the threshold of the Caffè del Teatro Grande Berlucchii into the eighteenth-century magic of the spaces of the Ridotto. From breakfast to an aperitif, from coffee to tasting the best local wines, the Café is ready to welcome you, every Saturday and Sunday from 10 to 20The show continues in the Teatro Grande of Brescia, a marvel inaugurated in 1664 and counted among the most important theaters in Italy. the Teatro Grande awaits you with its rich offer of performances including opera and ballet, concerts, dance. On the afternoons of Saturday 1 April, 6 May and 3 June 2023, the Theater hosts a guided tour to discover the beauties and mysteries of this extraordinary complex . Get ready to be amazed: BresciaUnderground 3.0 organizes underground tours to discover the hidden face of the city along with anecdotes and stories. Equipped with a torch, high boots and a helmet, you will discover buried rivers, irrigation ditches and canals that innervate the subsoil of the historic city centre. An adventure to discover the subsoil of Brescia, full of testimonies of the Brixia of the past.

INFOVisit BresciaBrescia card: card turistica da 24 o 28 hInfopoint turisticiInfopoint Via Trieste 1Infopoint Viale Stazione 47Visite Teatro GrandeMuseums info (Brixia, Santa Giulia, Pinacoteca Tosio  Martinengo, Museo del Risorgimento, Museo delle Armi